Here is a bouldering training plan that focuses on power endurance, with a progression from beginner to expert:
Beginner (Weeks 1-4)
- Warm-up: Spend 5-10 minutes warming up with easy boulder problems or traversing to get your muscles ready for the workout.
- Power Endurance Training: Choose 3-4 boulder problems that are near your limit (i.e., you can climb them but only for a short amount of time before getting pumped). Climb each problem 3-5 times with a 2-3 minute rest between attempts. Try to climb each problem without falling off, but if you do, take a short rest and continue. Rest for 5-10 minutes between sets. Do 3-4 sets.
- Cool-down: Spend 5-10 minutes stretching and doing light cardio to help your body recover.
Intermediate (Weeks 5-8)
- Warm-up: Spend 5-10 minutes warming up with easy boulder problems or traversing to get your muscles ready for the workout.
- Power Endurance Training: Choose 3-4 boulder problems that are slightly harder than what you can climb consistently. Climb each problem 4-6 times with a 2-3 minute rest between attempts. Try to climb each problem without falling off, but if you do, take a short rest and continue. Rest for 5-10 minutes between sets. Do 3-4 sets.
- Campus Board Training: Spend 10-15 minutes doing campus board training to improve your upper body power and contact strength. Do 3-4 sets of 5-7 reps with a 2-3 minute rest between sets.
- Cool-down: Spend 5-10 minutes stretching and doing light cardio to help your body recover.
Advanced (Weeks 9-12)
- Warm-up: Spend 5-10 minutes warming up with easy boulder problems or traversing to get your muscles ready for the workout.
- Power Endurance Training: Choose 3-4 boulder problems that are close to your limit. Climb each problem 4-8 times with a 1-2 minute rest between attempts. Try to climb each problem without falling off, but if you do, take a short rest and continue. Rest for 5-10 minutes between sets. Do 4-5 sets.
- Campus Board Training: Spend 15-20 minutes doing campus board training to improve your upper body power and contact strength. Do 4-5 sets of 5-7 reps with a 2-3 minute rest between sets.
- Cool-down: Spend 5-10 minutes stretching and doing light cardio to help your body recover.
Expert (Weeks 13-16)
- Warm-up: Spend 5-10 minutes warming up with easy boulder problems or traversing to get your muscles ready for the workout.
- Power Endurance Training: Choose 3-4 boulder problems that are at your limit. Climb each problem 6-10 times with a 1-2 minute rest between attempts. Try to climb each problem without falling off, but if you do, take a short rest and continue. Rest for 5-10 minutes between sets. Do 4-5 sets.
- Campus Board Training: Spend 20-25 minutes doing campus board training to improve your upper body power and contact strength. Do 5-6 sets of 5-7 reps with a 2-3 minute rest between sets.
- Limit Bouldering: Spend 15-20 minutes working on boulder problems that are harder than what you can currently climb. Focus on trying hard moves and sequences that you haven’t done before.
- Cool-down: Spend 5-10 minutes stretching and doing light cardio to help your body recover.
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